Una Malvasìa del Settecento, incisione di M. Fontana, Venezia, 1841

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An 18th century Malvasia, engraving by M. Fontana, Venice, 1841

One of the many primacies of the Serenissima was to turn wine into a luxury good by marketing it first throughout the Mediterranean basin and then to Romania, across the Black Sea, but also to Southampton in the North Sea, along routes called Mude. The most spectacular muda was undoubtedly that of Flanders: towards the end of May, four or five of the most solid galleys built in theArsenal would set sail for a voyage of at least a year to England and Flanders.

In Venice, these specialities were served daily in the various taverns distributed along the city's calli. Among the most

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